Pottery Wheel Buying Guide: How to Choose Your First Potter's Wheel

I'll be honest – for the first year of my pottery journey, I never seriously considered buying my own wheel. I was perfectly content using studio wheels, and the idea of spending hundreds (or thousands) of dollars on equipment for my garage seemed excessive. But living 40 minutes from the nearest pottery studio with available class openings or open studio time started wearing on me. That drive. The limited hours. Having to pack up and leave right when I was getting into a flow state.

So I started browsing Facebook Marketplace, just looking. Not seriously shopping. Just... seeing what was out there.

Then one day, I found it: a Pacifica GT400 by Laguna that had been sitting in someone's garage for ten years. Never used. Still in excellent condition. She was asking $750 – about half the price of a new one. I jumped on it, loaded it into my car (they are HEAVY, by the way – get help with transport!), and brought it home.

That was one of the best pottery decisions I've made. Having a wheel at home has changed my practice in ways I didn't expect. But buying a pottery wheel isn't right for everyone, and there are definitely things I wish I'd known before starting my search. Let me share what I learned.

Do You Actually Need to Buy a Pottery Wheel?

Before we dive into which wheel to buy, let's address the bigger question: should you buy a wheel at all?

You probably don't need your own wheel if:

• You have easy access to a pottery studio with good open studio hours
• You're still in the beginner stage and not sure pottery will stick
• You don't have appropriate space (pottery is messy)
• You're happy with the frequency you currently throw
• Budget is tight and studio time is more economical

You might want your own wheel if:

• You live far from pottery studios (like my 40-minute drive situation)
• Studio hours don't match your schedule
• You want to practice frequently without time pressure
• You have appropriate space and can manage the mess
• You're committed to pottery long-term
• You want to teach eventually or have family members who want to learn

For me, the distance was the deciding factor. Forty minutes each way means 80 minutes of driving for every pottery session. That adds up quickly, not to mention gas costs. Having a wheel at home meant I could throw for 30 minutes on a weeknight if I wanted, without the logistics of driving to a studio.

But here's the thing: I still use studio wheels sometimes. Having a home wheel doesn't mean abandoning community studios entirely. I transport work back and forth as needed, especially for firing (more on that later).

New vs. Used Pottery Wheels: My Experience

When I started shopping for a wheel, I quickly realized that quality pottery wheels are expensive. New wheels from reputable brands (Brent, Skutt, Shimpo, Laguna) typically run $800-$2,000+. That's a significant investment.

Used wheels, however, can save you considerable money. I paid $750 for my used Pacifica GT400, which retails for around $1,500 new. That 50% savings made the purchase much more palatable.

Why used wheels are a good option:

Pottery wheels are workhorses built to last decades. They're simple machines mechanically – a motor, some belts (or direct drive mechanism), a wheel head, and speed control. There aren't many parts that can break, and most issues are easily fixable.

My "new to me" wheel had literally never been used. The previous owner bought it with good intentions, life got busy, and it sat in her garage for ten years. I lucked out, but even well-used wheels can be excellent purchases if they've been maintained.

The challenge with used wheels:

They're hard to find. I searched for about a month before finding mine, checking Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist daily. Good wheels at reasonable prices get snapped up quickly. You need patience and persistence.

Pricing for used wheels varies wildly depending on condition, brand, and how desperate someone is to sell. I've seen used wheels priced anywhere from $300 for beat-up unknown brands to $1,200 for barely-used premium models.

My advice on used vs. new:

If you can find a good used wheel from a reputable brand at a fair price, buy it. Pottery wheels barely lose value if well-maintained, so you're not taking much risk financially. Worst case, you could resell it for close to what you paid.

But if you can't find used options after reasonable searching, or if you want specific features only available in new models, buying new is fine. Think of it as an investment – a quality pottery wheel will likely outlast your interest in pottery (though hopefully that interest lasts a lifetime!).

Avoiding Scams When Buying Used Pottery Wheels

Because pottery wheels are high-ticket items, they attract scammers on online marketplaces. I encountered several red flags during my search:

Common pottery equipment scams:

The overpayment scam: Buyer claims they accidentally sent too much money and asks you to refund the difference. The original payment is fraudulent and will be reversed, but your "refund" is real money leaving your account.

Send money before seeing the item: Anyone asking for payment before you can inspect the wheel in person is either a scammer or incredibly naive. Never do this.

Too good to be true pricing: A $1,500 wheel listed for $200? Probably a scam. If pricing seems impossibly good, it usually is.

Weird payment methods: Legitimate sellers accept cash, Venmo, PayPal, or similar normal payment methods. Be suspicious of unusual payment requests.

Poor communication or pressure: Scammers often communicate poorly or try to rush you into decisions. Legitimate sellers are usually happy to answer questions and let you inspect items.

Safety tips for buying used pottery equipment:

• Meet in person to inspect the wheel before payment
• Bring someone with you for safety (and help loading – wheels are heavy!)
• Test the wheel if possible (I didn't, which was risky)
• Ask questions about maintenance history and any issues
• Trust your instincts – if something feels off, walk away
• Use cash or payment methods with some protection
• Get a receipt with the seller's contact information

I took a calculated risk not testing my wheel before buying since it was supposedly unused. It worked out, but I should have at least plugged it in to verify the motor ran. Don't skip this step if you can avoid it.

Finding Used Pottery Equipment

Beyond general marketplaces, there are pottery-specific resources for finding used equipment:

Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist: Where I found my wheel. Check daily, set up alerts if possible, and be ready to move quickly on good deals.

Pottery Gear Exchange Facebook Group: I actually run a group for this! Pottery Gear Exchange on Facebook is very active with potters buying and selling equipment. Kilns, wheels, slab rollers, extruders, wedging tables, and other gear get listed regularly. Wheels are listed occasionally, though they're harder to find than kilns. It's a good community of potters, and I moderate the posts closely, so scams are less common than general marketplaces.

Local pottery guilds and studios: Sometimes post classified ads or know members selling equipment. Worth asking around. Use our pottery studio directory to find studios near you to contact.

Estate sales and auctions: Occasionally pottery equipment shows up, though you need to be vigilant and ready to act.

Pottery supply stores: Some have consignment sections or know customers looking to sell used equipment.

The Pottery Gear Exchange group has had lots of success stories of people finding great deals on equipment. It's worth joining even if you're not currently shopping – you'll learn what fair pricing looks like and what equipment is available in your area.

Key Features to Consider in a Pottery Wheel

Drive System: Belt Driven vs. Direct Drive

When choosing an electric pottery wheel, one of the first decisions you'll face is between belt driven and direct drive systems. (There are also kick wheels, which are foot-powered traditional wheels, but we won't delve into those in this article – they're a completely different experience and less common for home studios.)

Understanding the differences between belt driven and direct drive wheels will help you make an informed decision based on your priorities and budget.

Belt Driven Pottery Wheels:

This is what I own – my Pacifica GT400 is belt driven, as are the Brent wheels at my community studio. A belt driven system uses a motor connected to the wheel head via belts and pulleys to transmit power.

Pros of belt driven wheels:

• Higher potential torque: Belt systems provide significant torque through mechanical advantage, which is beneficial for centering and throwing large amounts of clay
• Lower initial cost: Belt driven wheels are typically more affordable than direct drive models, making them accessible for beginners on a budget
• Simpler and cheaper maintenance: When belts wear out (and they will eventually), they're inexpensive and easy to replace – I spent $40 on replacement belts and swapped them myself in 20 minutes
• Proven design: This technology has been the standard in US pottery wheels for decades, with many reliable, time-tested models available

Cons of belt driven wheels:

• Noisier operation: The mechanical parts create more noise and some vibration compared to direct drive, though higher-end belt driven models (like Brent) are surprisingly quiet
• Required maintenance: You need to check belt tension periodically and replace belts as they wear – though honestly, this is straightforward and not a big deal
• Potential for slight responsiveness delay: The belt can introduce minor softness in speed adjustments under heavy load, though good engineering minimizes this

My experience with belt driven wheels has been excellent. The Brent models at my studio are workhorses that have been running for years with minimal issues. My Pacifica performs beautifully, and when I needed to replace belts after six months of regular use, it was incredibly easy.

Direct Drive Pottery Wheels:

In a direct drive system, the motor connects directly to the wheel head shaft, eliminating belts and pulleys entirely. I haven't personally owned a direct drive wheel, but I've heard from other potters about their characteristics.

Pros of direct drive wheels:

• Quieter operation: With fewer moving parts, direct drive wheels (like the Shimpo Whisper series) are significantly quieter – ideal for home studios in shared spaces or apartments
• Less maintenance: No belts to adjust or replace means one less thing to worry about
• Instant response and precision: The direct motor connection allows instantaneous speed changes and detailed responsiveness when working with clay
• Durability: The simpler mechanism often leads to long life with fewer potential points of failure

Cons of direct drive wheels:

• Higher initial cost: Due to more complex electronics and motor design, direct drive wheels generally cost more upfront
• Potentially less torque (on some models): While high-end direct drive wheels have excellent torque, some models might have less than powerful belt-driven alternatives
• More complex repairs: If something fails (like the electronic control board), repairs can be more complex and expensive than simply replacing a belt

Which should you choose?

For most beginners and intermediate potters, belt driven wheels offer the best combination of affordability, power, and maintainability. The noise difference isn't dramatic with quality belt driven wheels, and the maintenance is straightforward.

Direct drive wheels are worth considering if:

• Noise is a major concern (apartment living, shared spaces, noise-sensitive household members)
• You want minimal maintenance
• Budget allows for the higher initial investment
• You value the precision and instant response in speed control

Personally, I'm perfectly happy with my belt driven Pacifica and the belt driven Brents at my studio. The noise level is acceptable, the power is excellent, and knowing I can easily replace belts myself gives me confidence in long-term ownership. But if I lived in an apartment or had serious noise concerns, I'd seriously consider a direct drive model like a Shimpo Whisper.

Power and Torque

Regardless of drive system, your wheel needs enough power to center clay reliably without bogging down. Cheap wheels often have underpowered motors that struggle with larger amounts of clay or when you apply pressure during centering.

My Pacifica GT400 has plenty of power for my needs. I typically work with 2-5 pounds of clay, and the wheel handles it beautifully. The Brent models at my community studio (which I love and would be my ultimate goal if I ever need to upgrade) have even more power, but the Pacifica is working great for what I need.

Motor specifications to look for:

• At least 1/2 HP for serious pottery work
• Higher torque at lower speeds (important for centering)
• Consistent power delivery across speed range

Cheap Amazon wheels with weak motors might work for a year or so if you're just learning, but they're not great for serious hobbyists. If pottery becomes a regular practice, you'll outgrow them quickly and regret not investing in better equipment initially.

Belt System and Maintenance (For Belt Driven Wheels)

If you choose a belt driven wheel, maintenance ease matters. I didn't think about this until I needed to replace my wheel's belts after about six months of use. Belts wear out over time – that's normal. The question is: how easy are they to replace?

On my Pacifica GT400, changing belts is incredibly easy. I watched a YouTube video, ordered replacement belts from Sheffield Pottery for $40, and swapped them out myself in about 20 minutes. No special tools, no complicated procedures.

Some wheels make belt replacement much more difficult, requiring disassembly of major components or professional service. This is a big deal because belts will eventually need replacing – it's routine maintenance, not an if but a when.

Signs your belts need replacing:

• Wheel slips under pressure when it didn't before
• Less power than you're used to
• Unusual noises during operation
• Visible wear or cracking on belts

When shopping for belt driven wheels, research how difficult belt replacement is for the models you're considering. This will save you money and frustration down the road.

Speed Control

Most electric wheels use either a foot pedal or hand control for speed adjustment. I strongly prefer foot pedal control – it leaves both hands free for working with clay.

Speed control considerations:

• Smooth acceleration and deceleration
• Fine control at low speeds (crucial for centering)
• Responsive to subtle pressure changes
• Comfortable pedal position and sensitivity

My Pacifica's foot pedal feels responsive and smooth. I can make tiny speed adjustments without thinking about it, which is important when you're focused on the clay.

Wheel Head Size

Most pottery wheels have 12-14 inch wheel heads. This is adequate for most pottery work. Larger wheel heads (16+ inches) are nice for big pieces but aren't necessary for typical functional pottery.

I throw everything from small cups to large serving bowls on my 14-inch wheel head without issues. Unless you're planning to make very large sculptural pieces, standard wheel head size is fine.

Splash Pan

A splash pan catches water and clay slip during throwing, keeping your workspace cleaner. My wheel came with one, which is great. If you're buying a wheel without a splash pan, budget for purchasing one separately or get creative with alternatives.

Some potters use plastic storage bins, cut to size, as improvised splash pans. It's not pretty, but it works.

Noise Level

This matters if you're setting up in shared space or have close neighbors. My Pacifica (belt driven) is very quiet – not a concern at all. I can throw in my garage without worrying about disturbing anyone.

I've heard that direct drive wheels can be somewhat quieter, though higher-end belt driven models are a close second. Cheaper wheels of either type tend to be noisier.

If noise is a concern for your situation, research this specifically or ask to hear a wheel running before purchasing. Direct drive wheels like the Shimpo Whisper series are specifically designed for quiet operation.

Portability and Weight

Pottery wheels are heavy – typically 80-150+ pounds depending on the model. This weight provides stability during throwing (good), but makes moving them difficult (not good).

My wheel is set up in my garage, which works fine for now. Eventually it'll move to my backyard studio once construction is complete. Moving it will require help – pottery wheels are not one-person lift items.

If you think you'll need to move your wheel regularly, consider models with built-in casters or handles. But most potters set up wheels in permanent locations.

Pottery Wheel Brands: What to Look For

Certain brands have earned reputations for quality and reliability:

Brent: The gold standard. Expensive but built like tanks. These are what my community studio uses, and I love them. If I ever upgrade, a Brent would be my choice. Belt driven with excellent power and surprisingly quiet operation.

Skutt: Another top-tier brand known for reliability and good customer service. Offers both belt driven and direct drive models.

Shimpo: Japanese-made wheels with excellent reputations, particularly their Whisper series direct drive wheels. Often considered among the best available for quiet operation.

Laguna (Pacifica line): What I own. Good mid-range belt driven wheels that balance quality and price. The Pacifica GT400 has been excellent for my needs.

Speedball (Artista): Decent entry-level to mid-range wheels. Not as robust as top brands but more affordable.

Thomas Stuart: British-made wheels with good reputations, though less common in the US.

Brands to be cautious about:

Various cheap wheels sold on Amazon and similar sites, often made in China with unknown brand names. These might work for casual beginners but aren't built for serious pottery practice. Components are often lower quality, motors are underpowered, and they don't hold up to regular use.

If you're investing in a pottery wheel, stick with established brands. They cost more upfront but provide better experience and longer life.

Setting Up Your Home Pottery Wheel

Once you have a wheel, you need a functional setup:

Space Requirements

Pottery is messy. You need space where clay slip, water, and general mess won't cause problems. My garage works perfectly – concrete floor, plenty of room, and I don't worry about getting things dirty.

Ideal pottery wheel space:

• At least 6x6 feet of dedicated space
• Concrete or easily-cleaned flooring
• Good lighting (pottery requires seeing details)
• Electrical outlet (obviously)
• Comfortable temperature range
• Storage for clay, tools, and works in progress

You don't need a fancy studio. My garage setup is basic but functional. Eventually I'll have a proper backyard studio, but for now, the garage does the job.

Water System

You don't need a sink right next to your wheel. I use a bucket system that works great:

My bucket setup:

I have an old utility sink I bought (not plumbed, just sitting there) with a bin that hangs on the side where I pour throwing water after each session. I let it settle overnight, then gently pour the clear water back into a clean water bucket, leaving the sediment behind. All that sediment goes into my reclaim bucket under the sink.

This system keeps me from wasting water or sending clay down drains (which can cause plumbing problems). It takes a bit of discipline to manage, but it's not difficult once you develop a routine.

Cleanup without a nearby sink:

• Keep multiple buckets: one for clean water, one for settling water, one for reclaim
• Wipe hands and tools with sponges before washing in bucket
• Change water regularly so it doesn't get too clay-heavy
• Be disciplined about not pouring clay water down drains

Seating

You need a seat at the right height for comfortable throwing. Pottery wheel seats can be expensive, but I use a $20 shower seat from a home improvement store. It works perfectly – adjustable height, comfortable, and doesn't care about getting wet and dirty.

Proper seat height matters for throwing posture and comfort. You want your thighs roughly parallel to the floor when seated.

Additional Equipment

What came with my wheel:

• Splash pan (thankfully!)
• Wheel head
• Foot pedal

What I needed to acquire separately:

• Bats (for removing pieces without distortion)
• Bat pins or bat system
• Seat
• Buckets for water management
• Basic tools (though I already owned these)
• Towels specifically for pottery (separate from household towels)
• Storage for clay
• Shelf or table for works in progress

Budget for these extras when calculating total setup costs. They add up, though many items can be improvised or purchased inexpensively.

My Home Pottery Setup Journey

Currently, my wheel lives in my garage, which is working fine as a temporary solution. But I'm building a proper backyard pottery studio as an adjunct room in our metal garage. Construction started over the summer, but permitting has been slow – so far, only the concrete pad is poured.

Once complete, the studio will house my pottery wheel and a hand-building table. The wheel is integral to my practice since I throw regularly, but hand building space is important too for variety and different creative expressions.

I'm also planning to add a kiln to the studio, which will be a game-changer. Currently, I transport work to fire at a community studio, and I hate it. I've broken greenware during transport more than once. I usually wait until pieces are leather hard before transporting since you can fix minor issues if needed, but it's still a hassle.

Why I'm adding a kiln:

Transporting work 40 minutes each way for firing is tedious and risky. Having my own kiln means I can fire on my schedule without coordinating with studio firing schedules or worrying about damage during transport.

I'm planning to get a medium-sized kiln – not too small (you'd regret it) but not too large (takes forever to fill, and you don't want to fire empty kilns unnecessarily). I want an L&L brand kiln because I've heard they're easy to change elements, which is important for maintenance.

My ultimate studio vision:

A dedicated pottery space with a wheel (maybe space for one or two additional wheels eventually – I'm considering teaching lessons!), hand-building area, adequate storage, and my own kiln. Everything I need to practice pottery without depending on community studio availability or making that 40-minute drive.

But even once my studio is complete, I'll probably still use community studios occasionally. There's value in the pottery community, seeing what other people are making, and having access to equipment I might not own (like a slab roller or large kiln for oversized pieces).

The Reality of Home Pottery Practice

Having a home wheel hasn't dramatically increased the amount of pottery I make, but that's due to other life circumstances, not anything related to the wheel itself. What it has changed is the flexibility and convenience.

Benefits of home pottery practice:

Practice whenever: I can throw for 30 minutes on a weeknight without planning a whole studio trip. This spontaneous access is wonderful.

No time pressure: Studio open hours create natural time limits. At home, I can work as long as I want (or until my back hurts from hunching over the wheel).

Experimentation: I'm more willing to try techniques or forms that might fail when I'm not paying for studio time or feeling pressure from other potters waiting for wheels.

Clay storage: I can keep my precious Brown Bear and Little Loafers clay at home without worrying about studio storage limits.

Comfortable space: I can play music, take breaks whenever, and work in my comfortable old clothes without worrying about studio dress codes or other people.

Challenges of home pottery practice:

Isolation: I miss the community aspect of studio pottery. Working alone is fine, but there's something special about being around other potters.

Firing logistics: Still need to transport work for firing (until my kiln is installed). This is my least favorite part.

Clay management: Responsible for all my own clay storage, reclaim, and cleanup. At studios, much of this is managed for you.

Self-discipline: No scheduled class times means I need to motivate myself to practice. Some weeks I throw regularly, other weeks the wheel sits unused.

Space management: My garage pottery area is messy. I'm constantly managing clay dust, tools, works in progress, and general pottery chaos.

Should You Buy a Pottery Wheel?

Here's my honest advice after buying my own wheel:

If you know you'll stick with pottery for at least a while, SPEND THE MONEY to get what you want. Quality pottery wheels hardly lose value. Think of it as an investment that you can recoup if circumstances change.

I paid $750 for my used Pacifica. If I decided to sell it tomorrow, I could probably get $700-800 for it (maybe more if I waited for the right buyer). That's minimal depreciation for equipment I've used regularly for months.

Don't buy the cheapest wheel you can find thinking you'll upgrade later. Buy a quality wheel from a reputable brand, even if it means waiting longer to save money or searching longer for a good used option. You'll be much happier with the investment.

But don't buy a wheel if:

• You're still figuring out if pottery is for you long-term
• You have easy access to a good community studio
• You don't have appropriate space
• The cost would strain your budget
• You're content with your current pottery practice frequency

There's no shame in using studio wheels indefinitely. Many serious potters never buy their own wheels because studios provide everything they need. Home wheels are a convenience and luxury, not a necessity.

Final Thoughts on Pottery Wheel Ownership

Buying my Pacifica GT400 was one of the best pottery-related decisions I've made, but it was the right decision for my specific circumstances: living far from studios, wanting more flexible practice time, having appropriate space, and being committed to pottery long-term.

Your circumstances might be completely different. Maybe you live five minutes from a fantastic studio with great hours. Maybe you don't have space for a home setup. Maybe you prefer the community aspect of studio pottery and would feel isolated working alone at home.

All of these are valid reasons to stick with studio wheels.

If you do decide to buy a wheel, take your time, research thoroughly, watch out for scams, and invest in quality equipment. Whether you choose belt driven or direct drive, prioritize power, reliability, and ease of maintenance. A good pottery wheel will serve you for decades and provide countless hours of creative satisfaction.

Ready to start your pottery wheel journey? Check out FindAPotteryClass.com to find pottery studios where you can develop your wheel throwing skills before investing in your own equipment. And if you're looking for used pottery equipment, join the Pottery Gear Exchange group on Facebook to connect with other potters buying and selling gear.

The right wheel is out there waiting for you – whether it's at a community studio or eventually in your own garage or backyard studio. Happy throwing!